NGONGAP BEACH Following in the Footsteps of the Explorer Junghuhn – For an adventurer, a beach doesn’t have to have soft sand or clear water for swimming, just an atmosphere that brings you closer to nature. This is what Franz Wilhelm Junghuhn (a famous explorer from Germany) might have felt, who was amazed when he walked to Ngongap (or Ngungap) beach in Gunungkidul, Yogyakarta in 1856. After walking for weeks through the still wild wilderness of Java, Junghunh finally reached the famously wild southern coast of Java, full of waves crashing straight from the Indian Ocean. It was on this steep coral beach that Junghuhn mapped out his thoughts about the natural beauty, rich traditions and prosperity of the land of Java, which is full of nuances of spiritualism. Junghuhn also immortalized it in a painting entitled “Sudkuste bei Rongkop”, a masterpiece that was forgotten by the Indonesian people themselves.
A century and a half later, we are trying to find out the whereabouts of the beach that made the adventurer fall in love. It is quite difficult to find this rocky beach, especially in the middle of the winding Gunungkidul landscape full of steep coral. The sense of adventure was felt strongly when the asphalt road we were on suddenly turned into a rocky road, making the driver feel overwhelmed by climbing over the mounds of dirt that pitted our car’s tires. However, all the difficulties were worth it when we arrived at the old Pendopo where Junghuhn stopped 159 years ago, right on the edge of a steep rock with the sound of waves calling endlessly.
We immediately felt a sense of amazement when we saw the rows of coral cliffs that seemed to have not changed since 1856, just like in the painting “Sudkuste bei Rongkop”. Steep and strong coral grooves undulate beautifully on the right and left, defiantly challenging the giant waves of the Indian Ocean. At Ngongap Beach, the land seems to stop suddenly (around 100 meters above sea level) only to be replaced immediately by the deep blue ocean with its cruel waves, illustrating the power of nature itself. Extraordinary!
Just as described by Junghuhn in his books, the coral and ocean areas around Ngongap Beach are still a paradise for golden slobber birds. The caves under the coral are the perfect home for swallows (Aedromus sp) , protected from predators who try to steal their nests. At certain times, local people use this location to harvest swallow’s nests, the price of which can reach millions of rupiah per kilogram, but with high risks. The equipment used to reach this treasure cave is more or less the same as in Junghuhn’s time, only using a rope ladder which is still hanging tightly from a large tree near the pavilion. The lives and deaths of these gold miners depend only on this simple thread, along with the generosity of the nature they challenge.
Apart from swallows, these coral cliffs are also a nesting location for several other animals, such as the beautiful white-tailed bird (Phaeton lepturus) which arouses the curiosity of wildlife photographers throughout the country. The sea below is also rich in large fish, such as Cakalang (Katsuwanus pelamis) which is the target of anglers from various regions in Java. Sometimes, various other marine animals such as turtles, dolphins or even sharks can be seen swimming to the surface of the water, clearly enough to be seen from the top of a high cliff. Amazing!
With an extraordinarily beautiful landscape and very high natural wealth, we are not surprised how this sandless beach can attract the hearts of adventurers. The rows of sharp rocks and cruel waves actually hold abundant treasures, kept from greedy hands so that they can be enjoyed by our children and grandchildren in the future. In the end, we understand the feelings of Franz Wilhelm Junghuhn who decided to move forever to Indonesia, a place that was once considered wild and isolated, but is full of beauty for the true adventurer.
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